When Mark Kutsher took the reins of the legendary Kutsher’s Country Club in the early 1990s, he wasn’t just managing a hotel; he was safeguarding a monument.
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When Mark Kutsher took the reins of the legendary Kutsher’s Country Club in the early 1990s, he wasn’t just managing a hotel; he was safeguarding a monument.
As the third-generation operator who inherited the keys to the Monticello resort from his iconic parents, Milton and Helen, Mark Kutsher spent his life preserving an era defined by endless hospitality, massive portions of blintzes and borscht, and a uniquely American Jewish experience.
With the news this week of Mark’s passing, the final living link to Kutsher’s—and the golden age of the Catskills’ Borscht Belt—has been severed.
His death marks not just the loss of a devoted family man and local steward, but the closing of yet another chapter on a cultural phenomenon that will never be recreated.
What began in 1907, when brothers Max and Louis Kutsher started taking in guests at their small rooming house on 200 acres, evolved into a 1,500-acre resort empire with a 400-room hotel, an 18-hole golf course, a bungalow colony and sports camps–all guided by the keen business mind of Louis Kutsher’s son, Milton and hotel matriarch Helen, who did so with a gracious handshake, warm smile and motherly care. It survived the most turbulent years a century later under the watchful eyes of Mark.
Kutsher’s was never the biggest of the Catskill resorts, nor did it have the international acclaim. And it wasn’t Jerry Lewis’ favorite place.
But while other hotels touted their enormous dining rooms, multiple golf courses, outdoor pools and maze of corridors leading to more than a thousand guest rooms, Kutsher’s amazingly—and sadly—became the last of over 500 hotels in the Catskills during the heyday of the 1950s.
It was a sports-oriented resort, home to the Maurice Stokes Benefit basketball game. It’s where Wilt Chamberlain bell hopped and later soared in the Claire Bee Fieldhouse at Kutsher’s Sports Academy, where Muhammad Ali trained on Anawana Lake Road and rising entertainers like Jerry Seinfeld and Billy Crystal honed their craft on its Stardust nightclub stage.
Mark once told me there were many hardworking families in the industry, but very few that had the continuity like Kutsher’s.
“There were some very good hotels that ceased being hotels because nobody in the family wanted to keep doing it. I was interested in the business. Other hotels didn’t plan too well. For us, it was hard work, planning, positioning ourselves in a way that we had other businesses…building homes, camps, bungalow colonies. Part of a horizontal recreation idea that helped contribute to keeping us solid through years that might have been a little tough. And you got to be lucky. Luck is a big thing. We weren’t geniuses with what we did. But we worked our business.”
Mark learned that business as a teenager, working weekends as a bellhop. “In those days you didn’t have elevators. We had buildings three and four stories high with these narrow flights on the top. I was schlepping bags that were heavier than I was. The summer I was 16, I started working in the kitchen. That was cruel and unusual. I came to appreciate the amount of work that was necessary... you’re pushing out 700-1,000 meals in an hour and a half. That’s not easy.”
Mark said the hotels that continued to prosper did so because they were willing to reinvest in their places. “People used to swim in the lake, which was nice. Then all of a sudden, you had to have an outdoor pool, so you built one. Next thing came along was golf. We built nine holes. Few years later, another nine. Then you had to build an indoor pool. Seemed like a good idea. We built in the 1980s racquetball courts. The racquetball fad kind of died out quickly. We turned one of the four courts into a weight room. Was it the best thing? No. But you try.”
Kutsher’s thrived through the ‘70s.
Then “came a little erosion,” as Mark puts it. Old guests retired to Florida. Yuppies flew to Europe. Seniors bused to Atlantic City. Kutsher’s built condos and survived.
“For us, things started to get tough in the mid-’90s. The area was losing hotels and losing the impetus to do business. The cost of doing business, the food, the labor, the energy. We all know what it costs to live in our own homes. Start to use the multiplier; being able to charge what you need to manage had gotten harder. You’re competing with the whole world.”
Mark had seen countless casino dreams and development schemes fail, as Kutsher’s became the last all-inclusive, family-run kosher hotel in the Catskills.
Neil Gilberg, who was the manager of the hotel working alongside Mark for 25 years and friends since 1968, said he was a man of great integrity. “Mark had a calm demeanor, and most people don’t know he had a terrific sense of humor. He was liked by all the staff for his sense of fairness and great work ethic.”
To understand the true legacy of Borscht Belt resort owners like Mark Kutsher and Elaine Grossinger Etess, who died earlier this year, you have to look past their ledger books. They were not just running businesses; they were architects of a cultural sanctuary, community patriarchs, and standard-bearers of the American Dream for an entire generation of Jewish immigrants.
The Catskills Borscht Belt Museum in Ellenville, which features the familiar yellow-gold neon “Kutsher’s” sign in script that for decades was located just above the main entrance as visitors pulled up to the famed Catskill resort, serves as the physical anchor for this legacy. Instead of letting this history fade into the ruins of old buildings, the museum ensures that the sights, sounds, and spirit of that vibrant era are preserved for future generations.
On July 25-26, the Museum will hold its annual Borscht Belt Festival that celebrates the golden era of the Catskills resort culture. For more information, visit www.borschtbeltmuseum.org.
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