My granddaughter Adeline and I arrived safe and sound at the historic Otesaga Hotel in Cooperstown.  The Otesaga Hotel was built in 1909 by Stephen Carlton Clark and his brother Edward Severin Clark.   Edward also owned The Dakota in New York City.  The family fortune came from Edward Cabot Clark, an attorney who became a partner in Isaac Singer’s sewing machine company.  Upon his death, his estate was worth approximately $30,000,000 ($1.6 billion in today’s dollars). Clark had purchased property in both Manhattan and in Cooperstown, and the family maintains an interest in this upstate village through the auspices of his great-great granddaughter Jane Forbes Clark.

Through the years, the Clark Family established the Baseball Hall of Fame, Mary Imogene Bassett Hospital, the Farmers Museum as well as the Fenimore Art Museum and Glimmerglass Opera.  In addition, Jane Clark has made sure that Cooperstown retains its upstate charm and beauty.

We were certainly spoiled on our visit to the Otesaga. After an early evening swim in the heated pool, we decamped to the Hawkeye Grill for a late supper.  We sat outside as the sun went down over the calm waters of Otsego Lake. After sharing the delightful edamame dumplings, Adeline opted for the Burrata and Grilled Peach Pizza. The peaches this year have been exceptional and hers was an inspired choice. I enjoyed the Shrimp Scampi served on a bed of bucatini. After all that we had no room for dessert, so we headed upstairs for a well-deserved rest.

Luckily, the staff had visited our room for turndown service and left each of us a chocolate treat which hit the spot.  We needed our rest  because my sister Laurie was coming up to spend the day with us tomorrow.

We got up, if not with the chickens, then at least with some sleepy crows.  Wandering downstairs, we found the glorious, sun-filled Glimmerglass Room overlooking – you guessed it – the lake.  There was an enormous spread such as you would imagine, with everything from waffles to omelets made to order, tables filled with fruit and pastries, oatmeal, corned beef hash, and smoked salmon.  I enjoyed scrambled eggs with hash while Adeline had a bespoke omelet.  Soon enough, sister and great-aunt Laurie appeared tableside and we decamped to the Fenimore Farm and Country Village, aka the Farmers Museum.

It has certainly grown bigger and more impressive since I brought my two kiddos up to see it back in the 1980’s.  There is a full village, complete with church, stores, blacksmith, a school, and a tavern. All are buildings from NYS which have been transported here. The Main Barn, through which one enters the village, has rotating exhibits as well as the infamous Cardiff Giant which was one of the greatest hoaxes in history.  This “petrified man” was the creation of George Hull and his cousin William Newell. Hull had the ten-foot giant carved out of gypsum and then brought it to Newell’s farm where it was buried, only to be “discovered” by two men who had been hired to dig a well, ostensibly.  Well, as you might imagine, the discovery of a petrified giant created quite a stir and by Day Two, Hull and Newell were charging admission to view it.  P.T. Barnum tried unsuccessfully to buy it but was forced to make his own and proclaim it the original. 

Our day at the museum was off to a rollicking start.